08 CM Tranny troubles

Hey all,
I've posted about random issues with the tranny in my 2008 Tundra Crew max 5.7 4WD.

Bought earlier this year and had very random issues with the tranny not going into 5th and 6th gear. It would come and go.

Took it to a Toyota dealer to scan the CEL as my cheapie reader wouldn't.

Report then was code P0983 and noted that Shift Solenoid "D" has high resistance. At the time the dealer recommended swapping the solenoid AND the harness.
however they ran into the common Tundra tranny issue, broken bolts. They broke 1 and felt like 4 more could break.

Told them to stop. So they refilled the tranny fluid and charged me $500 to swap fluid, break 1 of my bolts. But thats besides the point here


Fast forward to a month ago. Truck was shifting normal and accelerating from light up slight incline the truck shifted hard and wouldn't go over 3rd gear. Very much limp mode.

Got her home and let sit for a couple days. Took her out again and shifted normally into gears like it should but kinda hard shifting and hesitating a bit.

Then on the way home from hunting land accelerating uphill the truck went back into limp mode and won't go over 3rd gear. I have driven it a bit here and there but keeping under 35mph.

Finally got a good code reader and here are the codes it's throwing:
P0766 - Shift Solenoid D Performance/Stuck Off
P0776 - Pressure Control Solenoid "B" Performance/Stuck Off
P0983 - Shift Solenoid "D" Control Circuit High
P2714 - Pressure Control Solenoid "D" Performance/Stuck off

Then under ABS codes:
C1201 - no real definition given

I'm fine doing the repairs if it's the solenoid(s) though getting broken bolts out do give me pause

Reason I'm posting is for some advice as I am terrible troubleshooting vehicles. I can do the work and follow directions, troubleshoot not so much.


To start off, what is the parts list I'll need? I want to replace all tranny pan bolts and anti-seize the hell out of them.

$83 00289-ATFWS Automatic Transmission Fluid, 192 Ounces, 6 Pack

00289-ATFWS - atf fluid 4-5 quarts
35168-34020 - atf pan gasket
91611-B0625 - trans pan bolt
90430-a0003 - drain plug gasket
does overfill plug need gasket?
What other parts do I need to grab

From the webz it seems Shift Solenoid D is S4
Should I worry/replace Solenoid B? Webz show it's S2


What other troubleshooting can be done before I drop the pan and break bolts and replace solenoid(s)


I have limited experience repairing vehicles but again can follow directions well. I have all tools needed except drain pan (will buy).


Driveway is gravel and garage is too small to work so my back will be on gravel lol outside in Kentucky. 3rd vehicle so not vital/urgent.

Any help/tips are greatly appreciated

 

I'm going through a similar situation. Only p2714 and p0761. My issue only comes on cold mornings when I leave my neighborhood. If you're getting all those codes and want to try fixing it I'd say just get a reman valve body with all the solenoids in them off ebay. They run around $400. I think just the valve body itself runs $800 from Toyota. That's a chunk of change for something that may or may not work.

Here are some videos I've come across in the last few days
https://youtu.be/s0G-XQvunBM?feature=shared

https://youtu.be/DxbvobUqcI8?feature=shared

https://youtu.be/WEiBLfoY2kU?feature=shared

https://youtu.be/LraQqGHTmKo?feature=shared

https://youtu.be/cNu3feOLXxI?feature=shared

https://youtu.be/y7uSTRSUKVo?feature=shared

https://youtu.be/a7-9h_Kcye0?feature=shared

 

The first video is a transmission break down and shows how many clutch packs/friction disc are in our transmission. So it's easy to see how if the fluid isn't changed with all those disc wearing can cause a lot of material to get into valve body system and cause us issues.

I'm still holding out that changing the solenoids in mine will save it but at best its 50/50.

 

Appreciate the videos, judging by the thumbnail I've seen a few before but will look at them all.

As far as I know the fluid was changed in June by the dealer.
I guess I could fill it with some more, warm the fluid up to around 110deg or so and check the overflow and see if anything comes out

I'm still betting it's the solenoids though my luck it'll be something much worse.

 

Your 1201 ABS code is sympathetic to your tranny codes; basically it is triggered as a result of tranny codes and is what pushes the truck into limp mode...

I dealt w/the P0983 shift solenoid code (high resistance)....

Solenoid was replaced, truck was good for a few weeks, and it then through the same code up again. The mechanic said unlikely it was a bad part, but swapped it again (under warranty), and a few days later same problem.

It ended up being the wiring harness 'pin' for that particular solenoid; it wasn't making proper connection. My mechanic subbed it out to a local dealer for replacement of the single pin (apparently the local dealer has a tool and had experience dealing w/this problem) and was able to isolate and replace the individual pin. I've had no issues since this was done (about 3 months ago).

My understanding is that the external connector that connects the tranny to the main wiring harness is also subject to corrosion and such, and it is a common fail point.

 

Dropped my pan last night. Was lucky and all pan bolts came out no issues. There was some material on the magnets but nothing significant in my opinion. Pressure solenoid D OHMed out within range but going to change it out anyway. Other than that going to change the filter/screen and another round of new fluid.

 

Do you know if the dealer did a full on power fluid flush or just a drain and refill.

 

I want to explore that possibility and is a LOT easier to troubleshoot than dealing with the pan and bolts. I've seen a video where someone tested the resistance from the connector on the tranny to the solenoid before dropping the pan but I am really out of my element with this. Any good videos to brush up on? And any tips for inexpensive automotive wiring testing kits? The ones on Amazon are over $100 and I only need a couple cables lol

This is the video where he tested the resistance and got me thinking about it. I linked video at testing part AND the motor in this specific video is V6 so not apples to apples but good starting point and great info IMO

ETA flash forward to 2.20 for troubleshooting

I am 90% sure they did a drain, tried to removed the bolts, broke 1, then stopped and called me. After I told to cease work they prolly just filled. Paperwork doesn't mention flush, just refill

 

Unfortunately, no videos... I do recall seeing posts within this forum somewhere that talked about false results when bench testing the solenoids out of the vehicle, so I think you're correct in trying to assess while everything is connected and intact.

 

Not an electronic savy guy so if it can be tested before dropping the pan fine. I'll poke around this forum or the youtubez and see what they have to ensure I'm testing right
if I'm dropping the pan solenoid(s) are getting replaced, then the only test then is at the wiring harness to connector to ensure harness is OK

On that note, anybody have the harness part number?

 

Got some of the small parts ordered, I do things very slowly lol

Based on the codes above
P0766 - Shift Solenoid D Performance/Stuck Off
P0776 - Pressure Control Solenoid "B" Performance/Stuck Off
P0983 - Shift Solenoid "D" Control Circuit High
P2714 - Pressure Control Solenoid "D" Performance/Stuck off

Should I order Solenoid B or just D
Or get both, and toss em in?

And new transmission filter or go with as is? 240k miles and prolly original (wash out?)

 

Make sure to test for resistance on old ones and new ones. I tested mine dead cold in the morning and got them to 68 degrees to test per manual. Reasoning behind that is my problem only occurred 1st thing in the morning on cold days.

Also a good tip I was given is spray out the slots for the solenoids once you remove them with brake parts cleaner. There was definitely some buildup in mine. Wouldn't hurt to remove every solenoid to spray out since you're down there.

 

Not a bad idea, thanks!

 

Alrighty. My ADHD makes every decision 100x longer and more thought out than it needs to be thus all my tasks take longer

As I like to have spares, here is what I've bought so far

91611-B0625 - trans pan bolt - 15x
90301-31014 - trans filter o-ring - 1x
90341-10021 - overfill plug - 1x
90341-12012 - drain plug - 1x

$10 35178-30010 luxlead 20 PCS Transmission Drain Plug Gaskets Oil Crush Washer Seal Rings Compatible with Toyota Lexus 4Runner Sequoia Tacoma Tundra Lexus GS450H, IS250/350, LS430, LS460, Replaces 35178-30010

35178-30010 - drain plug gasket - 3x
90301-15004 - fill plug gasket - 2x

I want to confirm the part number for the Shift Solenoid D - S4 for 08 5.7L CM, AB60F is 3524050060
They really don't make it easy on some parts diagrams

Should I consider buying Solenoid B at this point or take care of D and see what happens?

 

If you are going to open it up anyways, and you are doing the work yourself.... I'd grab both, but that's me!

 

I've been trying to gather a list of the part numbers to solenoids but I've been going crazy trying to match them all up, just to have.
Seems that some solenoids are the same?
Maybe

 

Old thread, I don't do anything fast lol

Have to do on gravel and outside due to small garage

Plan is to have buddy help with stubborn bolts.
Been spraying with pb blaster every 2-3 days for last week.

Bought solenoids from rockauto
Using Valvoline MaxLife Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid 1 Gallon, have 2 gallons for initial fill, change after couple weeks then buy more to do slow flush

Thanks to all for assistance and I'll post updates and maybe pictures of possible.

Dealer had it last summer and said if 12 pan bolts 1 broke for sure, 5-6 came loose and 5-6 "seemed close to snapping"

Really hoping this works, been a year since I bought and not been 100% so if you're praying type, quick prayer is requested

 

Mid work update (again, I don't do anything quick lol)

Buddy and I drained the pan and got maybe 1 1/5th gallon of ATF that only had slight hint of red. Did not smell burnt
Got old solenoids out and new ones in

Snapped 5 bolts as the dealer predicted so out of total of 12, half snapped including the one the dealer did last year.

The process to get the snapped bolts out took 4+ hours and we only succeeded in 1 complete success and 1 95% success. The 95% was drilled and then it collapsed and pulled out. Then chased the threads with M6x1 tap and replacement bolt threads nicely in but has some slop compared to others.

Still 4 broken bolts in and the idea is to work more with pliers/tap out
if that doesn't work drill slowly being careful to preserve the threads

If that still doesn't work then (mechanics look away)
drill through not worrying about threads and run new smaller bolt/washer/lock washer/nut and "sandwich" the transmission to the pan - backyard mountain top engineering but it's an old truck and I don't care as long as it runs

Going to try the bolts again this weekend

Pics to come later