Getting up to speed in my new '02 Tundra

I was fortunate to get the full carfax report from the previous owner, and I'm running through it to see what's up first (after the LBJs) for maintenance. I'm coming from the first gen Tacoma universe, so I'm not up to speed on the Tundra V8 engine yet.

The previous owner took it to Toyota while under warrant, then mostly one shop, but very occasionally a third shop. I don't know enough to know if they're using different terminology, or actually talking about something different.

The main shop says they replaced the timing belt/water pump at ~129,000 miles. But then there's a service record from a different shop at 174,000 that says they replaced the serpentine belt. What I can't find through quick internet searching is whether timing belt = serpentine belt, or if they're a different thing?

Truck is at 225,000 miles now. The sense of urgency for getting a new timing belt in there will be very different depending on whether it was last changed at 129,000, or 174,000.

I'll have more questions, but that's the most pressing. Thanks!

 

The serpentine belt is the "fan belt" you can see at the front of the engine. TB is behind the plastic covers at the front of the engine block.

 

The date of those services is also relevant as the timing belt is called for every 10 years.

 

Timing belt is separate from serpentine belt. Serpentine belt is the one that drives the accessories off the crank and is visible when looking at the front of the engine. You should change the timing belt now at around 100k miles.

 

Ok thanks. What about "drive belts" vs serpentine belt vs timing belt? That's part of what's confusing me.

 

Drive belt and serp belt are the same thing. Same way 'carrier bearing' and 'center support bearing' are used interchangeably.

Timing belt is the timing belt.

 

I would consider drive belt and serpentine belt to be one in the same. It drives the accessories, A/C, alternator, etc.

 

Interesting. Strange, then, that they listed both serpentine and drive belts, separately, right? That's what threw me off. Well, that and the fact that someone put a sticker on the engine saying the timing belt had been done when the carfax report says serpentine and drive belts were done. But I guess I shouldn't get hung up on years-old carfax reports and what previous owners may have done with timing belt stickers. The critical thing is knowing that it's most likely been just shy of 100,000 miles since the last timing belt job. But at the very least it's been ~50,000 miles. Time to schedule an appointment.

Thanks!

 

You’re in the same boat as many of us that didn’t get FULL full maintenance records when we bought: when in doubt, change it out. :/

 

Yep, completely agree. I will say that because of the Carfax report, I got far more detailed maintenance records than for any vehicle I've bought in the past. It was just this drive belt vs serpentine vs timing belt confusion based on how they reported to Carfax, and the possibly incorrect timing belt sticker on the engine that are causing me some scrambling. I hadn't expected the expense of the timing belt so soon after buying. But that's on me. Truck is great, extremely well maintained.

 

Shoot, the timing belt kit plus other "while your in there" items will be less than $500 and a weekend of your time. A solid baseline is worth the piece of mind with these 20 year old trucks.

 

While I do as much of my own work as possible, for whatever reason, with my Tacoma, after watching videos and reading tutorials on the timing belt job I always decide to let a mechanic do it. I assume the Tundra is more or less the same process. I'm sure for those who have done it it's no big deal, but my plan is to have a shop do it. Which triples your price estimate

 

Ok. Aside from a slightly confusing post that seems to equate the timing belt with a "serpentine belt" (and is anyone retorquing their driveshaft every 5,000 miles?), I think I'm pretty close to taking care of what should be taken care of on a new used vehicle.

I have maintenance records so I know I'm good on gearbox fluids for a bit.

I'm doing or have done:
LBJs
UBJs
Shocks
Fuel filter

Plugs were last done ~50,000 miles ago so that'll be on the list soon.

So what else? I think my radiator is original, now at 225,000 miles. It looks excellent. Aside from things like spark plugs that'll just help with performance, what are any other things that should be replaced as routine maintenance? Would you replace the radiator just because it's old and high mileage? It's been flushed and maintained throughout its life according to Carfax.

I'm basically spending money on necessary stuff before I realize how far in debt I am. I'm afraid once it hits home, I won't be willing to spend much on this truck for quite some time. So I want to get everything I should, now.

 

Pretty sure that post is saying both the timing and the serpentine should be changed on the same schedule.

 

Yes, but even if it didn't, we all should do it

 

I did mine just a few 100 miles ago for the first time in 310k miles

 

I only did mine cause I pulled it for the new carrier bearing. Never checked the front prop shaft

 

Do it. Not very expensive and can save you from ruining your trans if you get pink milkshake.

 

That's what I wondered. I remember seeing posts about the pink milkshake on Tacoma forums, but I've always had a manual transmission so I never read them.

Thanks.

And thanks, that makes sense about the serpentine/timing belt.

 

Well, aside from some sort of bed cover solution, preferably a shell but could go with a bed cover as a temporary measure, and assuming no actual mechanical problems, I'm done spending money on this thing till the timing belt job. Later this year. Ordered a radiator, hoses, thermostat and gasket. Guess I'll need fresh coolant too...And yes, I'll go Toyota.

 

RED

 

How close was it to the torque spec? I was shocked when I saw how often that was supposed to be done. I had no idea.

I got a six-year maintenance package from the dealership with my truck. It was a surprisingly good deal. I didn't always get the oil changed there so I stretched it out a couple more years.

all that to say, I would be willing to bet mine has only been done once or twice in the last 10 years and I'm about to go check it sometime this week

 

No clue because I removed it to R&R the trans for the rear main seal replacement

 

Well here we go. New shocks sitting on the floor, coils and mount and better than average spring compressor on their way. Toyota red, radiator, thermostat and gasket, hoses on their way. Studying up on power steering flush. I did it once on my Tacoma but that was 8 years ago now...Brake flush was done 20,000 miles ago so that can wait. Searching hard for a topper.

As I dig into the maintenance history, it's both great, and annoying. It's been really well maintained. BUT, at the time he sold it, damn near everything was due to be changed/flushed etc. again. Rather than do it all presale, he understandably just sold it. So I have a long, not inexpensive and time consuming list. But I definitely want to start out my time with this truck from a good foundation.

 

Replaced the rear shocks today. I'll say, after reading all the horror stories, I feel really, really grateful that mine were easy. I sprayed them with PB Blaster twice over the last couple days, but I was still prepared for major frustration.

All nuts broke free without issue. I was able to use vice grips and a ratcheting box wrench to get the tops off. Unfortunately I either didn't read other tutorials closely enough, or they didn't mention it, but while the top nuts on my previous shocks were 14mm, the new Bilsteins were 17mm. I have a 14mm ratcheting wrench, but not a 17mm. So they came off easy and fast, but went back on very slow. It was no problem, but it was 1/4 turn at a time...After I finished the first, I seriously thought about a trip to town to buy a 17mm ratcheting wrench...but didn't.

I don't think my old shocks were in such bad condition, but I want everything freshened up. I really like the feeling of getting in the truck and driving with brand new shocks all around, but I was so prepared for the rears to be a chore, I wanted to do them separately from the fronts. My front coils and mounts will be here mid-week. Turns out I could have easily done everything in one day. But that's alright.



The top nuts call for 15ft/lbs. Of course unless you take the bed off, there's no easy way to actually torque those. I just tried to get them tight enough that I could see about the same number of threads sticking out as the old ones. Also, my experience was that the nut turns and turns and turns with really no perceptible increase in tension, then all at once, it feels really tight. At that point, it's pretty much got to be at least 15ft/lbs.

 

Finished initial scraping-out of topper felt. Looks ugly, but looks way better than the peeling, crumbling felt. I actually don't really mind it...I'll clean it up some more, but I'm pretty good with it. I wasn't thinking of it at the time, but it turned out to be a really good thing I sprayed it at the car wash. Cut way down on the dust when I scraped it off.

Also uncovered the manufacturing tag. Looks like it says 'Toyota Royal FB SB' something...Not sure how they classified things.

To do this right, I'll need to pull all the windows and get the last remnants of felt. That'll be a great opportunity to reseal all the windows.

 

Honestly, you may just want to Raptor Liner the inside if you’re going to have the windows out. May as well vinyl wrap or paint while you’re at it

If I had my windows out for any reason at all, I would 100% take a minute to paint it. Scuff sand with a DA random orbit, then topcoat with semi-matching paint.

 

The slippery slope! Hmm...wrapping is something I've heard rumors of here and there over the years but that's as far as my knowledge goes. I really know nothing about it. Sounds like I finally need to get up to speed. This is the problem with being a bit poor. It's hard to afford the things you know should really be done to set yourself up right, and things end up costing you more over time because you couldn't afford the initial up front cost.

Been working on a new job for a while but I love my current job so even though it doesn't pay great, I'm being very picky about what I apply for. But in the meantime finances are getting tighter and tighter...something will need to happen soon.

Anyway I'll look into options and see what I can afford. After owning a camper for almost a decade, the idea of taking out windows for a re-seal doesn't feel like a one shot deal to me. I'd put it on the level of changing spark plugs. If I only pull the windows this time to get the old felt completely removed, I don't mind doing it again in a year.

 

New radiator, hoses, thermostat and transmission cooler hoses installed. Ran out of daylight and motivation so I'll fill/bleed tomorrow after work. That driver side coolant drain on the block was almost more trouble than it was worth...But I remember reading on this forum that I'd be surprised how much coolant came out of those drains, and at least with the passenger side, I definitely was.

The thermostat I pulled out of the truck didn't have a jiggle valve. I installed a new Aisin with valve at 12.

NAPA didn't list any tranny cooler hoses, but they all agreed that using power steering line didn't seem wrong. Rated for the same oil, and I think I saw 400 psi on it. Gates. 3/8". Inner diameter seemed just right but outer diameter was a bit more narrow, which unfortunately meant the OEM hose clamps weren't tight enough. I put the other kind of hose clamps on.

Otherwise, no surprises or complications.

If my motivation holds, I'll start the front springs and coils Wednesday, and unless things go extremely smooth and I get them on in one evening, finish them Thursday. I really want to do the upper ball joints this weekend and don't want a bunch of other stuff lined up waiting to install. That way I can just focus and take my time with the UBJs.

Edit: If my motivation and the weather holds...




Usually with those % chances, I won't have much to worry about. But I'm glad I'll have access to a garage this weekend.

 

It sounds like you're making great progress. Is it too late to say that if you're replacing the radiator and hoses you're 1/3 of the way to replacing the timing belt? Based on progress made it sounds like you're up to replacing the thing belt and saving some labor $ at a shop. Have you read the timing belt replacement sticky?

If you've made up your mind then carry on and enjoy your new Tundra!