When you can’t find that pesky oil leak.....

I hope that the o ring is your leak. It was on mine.
Since the oil pan is glued on, that seems unlikely culprit.

 

I think that the figure 8 O-ring is the problem. The leak got worse after moving the adapter around and reassembling it without replacing the O-ring. I am fairly sure that the new one will fix it. I mean, that O-ring is 21 years old and then I disturbed it by rotating it.

 

I think at 21 years, you got your monies worth.

 

Hello Diablo 675.
I need to understand more on how to get to the last bolt. did you completely loosen the ac compressor (not the hoses) and move it out of the way of the one bolt that is behind the ac compressor?

 

The repair for this problem is covered on the awesome Toyota Maintenance YouTube channel:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eeWAQzcqhPo

 

hello shifty - yeah started this double oring gasket replacement based off this video. The sequoia must be slightly different than the Tundra. there is a bot behind the ac compressor on my Tundra configuration.

Thanks.

 

Anyone know how much more involved that makes this compared to the above video? I was just told my truck has this same issue.

 

I talked with Diablo675 again and it will take some doing but he has mentioned a couple of times to me now that it is well worth it. I have 285,000k on my 06 DC & just changed the valve cover gaskets & that did not completely solve the oil leak problem. I can see and am 99% sure it is this little figure 8 o-ring @ the oil filter adapter.
I'm going to tackle mine in the next month and will keep you posted.

 

Update.

Still no drips after the oring repair.

 

Well I tackled that job today. Took 3+ hours. It definitely was the culprit..... No Drips! my driveway has taken a beating for the last year, but no oil now.
When Diablo675 talk about loosening the AC compressor, its not only the compressor in the way, it's the bracket for the AC compressor.
This job was well worth it.
Please reply with any questions while my mind is fresh.

 

So @adanielfish asking for @68BelowZero due to his frustration over here. I'm replying here in this thread to try and keep the info consolidated.

If I'm reading your reply right, it looks like you not only had to loosen the A/C compressor, but also the A/C compressor bracket in order to get the filter cooler/housing off, correct? Can you go into a little more detail about that process, what the "Aha!" was that finally let you pull the housing out?

 

I’m glad my post has helped some people. I sure have learned a lot from you fine folks.

 

That is correct. You loosen the AC compressor and move it to the side. Once it's moved to the side, there is a fairly large bracket that holds the compressor - If I remember correctly, there are two bolts holding this on. Once you get this ac bracket off, you have complete access to the last bolt that is holding the oil filter adapter. I did not have to unhook the cooling lines that went to the adapter, and was able to put the double o-ring gasket in with the lines still hooked up.
I used some really long 1/2" socket extensions to get to all of this with swivel adapters for my impact.
You will get access to a lot of the bolts from the drive side wheel well (you will need to remove the wheel well shield).
Like I said, it took me all of 3 hours, but is totally doable and if you have a leak there, this is the fix.
I still have NO LEAK!!!
please let me know how this goes for you and please don't hesitate to ping me again.
Thanks

 

It has been an adventure today for me. 2 of the bolts had rounded heads, then the top left bolt is blocked by an ac line. Still have yet to get that last bolt. Had to quit for the day before I got my Sig out! And 2 of the bolts weren't even tight!

 

Thank you for this thread. I think that where my leak is coming from.

 

Thank you! Exactly what I needed, was going to re-due oil pan gasket,then saw the cross member and was considering backing out, went to do the oil filter and saw the oil build up on top of oil cooler and thought oil cooler hose must be leaking, all were clean but one, but got too dark to trace any farther, this I exactly what's going on. Getting ready to do timing belt,water pump, valve cover gaskets, cam seals ( I don't understand why they are there or what they do, but that doesn't change the fact they need to be re-glued,( not glue, glue but 103 or right stuff)

 

I just did this and replaced the oil filter o-ring as well it’s right there

15692-50020
Oil cooler figure 8 Seal

90301-67004
(Oil filter o-ring)

 

Just ordered fig 8 forgot the o-ring thanks

 

Just wanted to add to the problems and solutions to the hidden oil leak from the figure 8 gasket and possibly the oil filter housing. All the research you guys have looked up was spot on. Never would have known without you guys help. Wanted to add to clarify some confusion. The task is simple just time consuming and messy.
Sequoia's are different than the Tundras. Tundra are a little more involved. I've taken a picture of what the a/c bracket looks like so you can vision what's needed to gain access to the hidden 3rd nut. You don't have to touch the a/c compressor itself mount bolts at all only the a/c bracket. There are 3 14mm bolts that hold the bracket to block. The rear you can access from under the truck and loosen but all the way but leave a few threads in. The other 2 completely remove. I did the top second and removed the bottom to keep it from dropping. I got about 12 zip ties wrapped 2 around the compressor and tied them up to the radiator mount bracket and tightened them until it held the compressor up enough to gain access to the nut and remove the filter housing.
I was working by myself that compressor weighs a bit. Here is a picture of the bracket the compressor sits on. I replaced the hoses that goes to the block from the coolers. They were the originals. The front looked good the rear was on its way out with all the oil that was dripping over the years. I inverted the picture to how it sits in the truck. Hope this help clarify and make it easier for the next.

 

I can't help but wonder if this leak is another thing

$20 AT-205 Re-Seal Stops Leaks, 8 Ounce Bottle

AT-205 would fix.

 

I'm not sure Shifty I have to do some research. But the orings figure 8 and cooler housing was flat. Would the

$20 at-205 re-seal stops leaks, 8 ounce bottle

at-205 cause the seals to swell?

 

I know the chemical your talking about. I've used it years ago when I used to buy acura legend for 500.00 because of blown head gaskets. But used this to smooth shifts after a transmission flush. Stuff works wonders. Maybe if it had low miles?

 

They say (maybe even guarantee?) it won't over-swell gaskets like some of the other miracle-in-a-bottle temporary fixes do. "gasket rejuvenator" is ultimately how they're branding it. Worked to shore up my dry ass valve cover gaskets, only to find one final small leak was due to piss poor FIPG.

 

Good idea I may have to get me a bottle today. They say advance have it but early 2000's Napa was the only place I could find it at.

 

My two local Advance stores usually have it on the back wall, in between the Seafoam and CRC MAF cleaner. I usually order online and use coupon RMN15 to get 15% off for in-store pickup. It's already cheaper to buy it full price there than to order on scAmazon, the coupon is icing on the cake.

 

Ok got you thanks!! Going to get some today. My buddy asked for a good product to use for his dodge truck and I totally forgot to mention this one. Your the man!!

 

We'll know in a few weeks, just added it to my sequoia and it's leaking right behind the oil filter housing.

 

Took about 200-300 miles of driving before I saw full effect.